Pelorus Sound with the mail boat

Pelorus Sound by mail boat 27 Nov

We hummed and hawed and then thought what the hell? Let's go on the mailboat cruise. So, we have to be in Havelock around 9:15. My attempt to set my phone alarm is a miserable failure, but I wake in good time anyway, and we pack a lunch and hit the road. We park just behind the jetty, and I wander off to pay the parking fee, while Harry goes to check us in. I return to find hi. In a "fellow Scots" conversation. The skipper of the mail boat is Jim from Elgin, who spent 3 weeks in New Zealand some years ago, and fell in love with the Marlborough Sounds. It's a bit like the West of Scotland but with far better weather. He's settled here with wife and child and garden and does the mail boat run. The tourists make the mail service financially viable, so everyone benefits. The homes he delivers to are those beyond the reach of the normal rural mail, which travels by road. My imagination balks at the self sufficiency of people living away from mains electricity and broadband. A tough breed.
We settle at the back of the boat in the open air, before going up the steep steps to the upper deck. A Canadian joins us, with the comment, "You look as though you're having far too much fun!" He and his two friends have walked the Queen Charlotte track, and the Nydia track.
We move out of Havelock Marina, along a channel in the wide expanse of water. Jim warns us that the scene will look rather different when we come back this afternoon.
After about half an hour we do the first mail drop - each of the houses has two mail bags, one delivered and one returned for the next time. The house dwellers and the mail boat clearly relish the chat. Some deliveries are groceries, and some are school supplies for distance learning without broadband access.
In between drops, Jim tells us some of the history of the mail boat run, and the people who rely on it. There's Wendy, who hunts possums for their fur, and has to row out to collect her supplies, since she hasn't got a jetty. We hear her dogs announcing her arrival. Later there's a family who are still farming sheep and cattle after six generations, in spite of the steep terrain and minimal returns. Or Bill Brownlees who has rigged up an incredible system with water driven electricity.
Then there's Nydia Bay, with its accommodation for hikers doing the two-day walk, where a couple of Woofers meet the mail boat.
We look out for wildlife - plenty of seabirds, shearwaters and Australasian gannets, but alas no dolphins - the sea's a bit choppy and hides any that may be there. We catch sight of a couple of little blue penguins. The same species we met on Kapiti Island a few days ago.
At lunch time we stop at Te Rawa where we eat our packed lunch and buy a lemonade, before going to admire the 'honeymoon suite'. The owner reckons it takes him forty minutes by boat to get into town.
On we go, round Maud Island, a nature reserve where there are takahe.
Only three people live on this nature reserve. Our last stop is to pick up Murray, a third generation inhabitant who returned to the Sound to look after his mother, who has since died.
Finally, at just after five pm, we turn back into the marina at Havelock, and go to the Info Centre cafe for tea and a date scone, before returning to our magnificent house for the week. Another thoroughly satisfactory day.

Stratford, Taranaki 20:11:12

To Taranaki 20 Nov
Fairly straightforward drive south towards Hamilton, with a stop at a service station, and then at Ngauruwallia for bank and a short break. And a phone call to Roslyn and Kevin to let them know we'd be 'about an hour late'! Then we made the decision to try the scenic route. Very scenic, verywinding, very mountainous, wave on wave of hills, and a section of unsealed gravel road in the middle. The road is called the Forgotten World Highway - for good reason? We stopped near Morgan's Grave - a reminder of the harshness of the terrain and the toughness of the settlers. We eventually arrived in Stratford about 3 hours late, but were still fed and watered royally, chicken, salad and hot chips in vast quantity. The evening flew by, as we were entertained by tales of people underestimating that road - cyclists, walkers as well as motorists. A minute amount of time on genealogy, which had brought us together in the first place.
When we emerged from the highway Mount Taranaki (Egmont) greeted us in its full glory. It is often shrouded or capped in cloud. We stayed overnight in the Amity Court Motel, with an amenable and helpful youngster in charge. The morning brought us another fine view of the mountain, then we set off after calling briefly on Roslyn for the photo we forgot to take the previous evening.

We've been hugely impressed by the hospitality and friendliness of New Zealanders.

Leaving Ellis Beach,and off to Auckland

To Auckland 18:11:12

Before we set off, we passed our surplus food on to the neighbours, who said they'd use what they could, and pass the rest on to friends. They found it amusing that we weren't keen on the heat. They lived in Darwin! We set off for Cairns, and arrived early at the airport to return the hire car. Then coffee, check in and herded into the plane. We got to our row to discover someone sitting in my seat. Their mistake, luckily. Two on one seat would have felt even more of a squash than it really was.
The Kiwi safety pep talk on screen was delivered in Tolkien characters spoof style. Raised a grin, anyway. The main problem was that the plane was packed. Getting to the toilet was like playing the game where you shuffle plastic pieces around inside a square case, and end up with something that makes sense.

Passport check, baggage reclaim and customs went smoothly, and best of all, Harry's friend, Jenny, was there waiting for us. It felt like coming home but 12 000 miles away! But what a home - set in 11acres, and with a magnificent view.

A good meal, a late night, an excellent bed for a good night's sleep, and up in the morning in time for breakfast and a trip on the local ferry - this time in the guise of a water taxi - to the isolated homes on Kawau Island, before we landed at the Mansion House for a couple of hours walking through the trees along tracks to the old Coppermine. Jenny was tempted by the beautiful clear water - until she took her coat off and noticed the temperature. We took the Redwood Track to return to the boat landing. It proved to be slightly longer than expected, though we made an unexpected detour, only to find that the fence blocking the way was there for a purpose. So briskly uphill and down brought us back to the Mansion before the boat arrived, and we had time to have a rapid look at the house. Lovely kauri wood paneling gave it a warmth and comfort that you wouldn't find in places like Chatsworth. To be fair, this place was much smaller too. I was particularly charmed by the children's rooms, small and practical.

Plans to share a pizza for lunch were scuppered by Monday closing, so we called in at James and Morris's Pottery for coffee and fruit cake. Tempting though their pots were, air travel doesn't lend itself to lugging large garden urns, alas.

Back to Jenny's for a sandwich and a chill out afternoon, looking at her studio in the garage, sending a couple of emails, introducing Jenny to the general concept of haiku.

She wouldn't let us help her cook, and fed us a delicious veggie frittata with red cabbage and apple. An early night followed so that we could visit her local national park before heading off to Auckland to collect the hire car.

The Reef

Started this on the boat out to the reef.Nov 17th Reef snorkelling


Early start.like six o'clock wake up then a drive into Cairns to the car park we'd reccied the day before. A short walk and a wait for the check-in. On board the reef magic boat, after the usual 'experience photo', we discovered a free wifi spot to catch up before getting to the marine magic area. We decided to go for an optional guide to snorkelling and proved well worth it. We hired lycra full body swimsuits - fashionable or what! The guide showed us lots of different fish, types of coral, a sea-cucumber, as well as Wally the Wrasse. Not to mention how to use the snorkel and mask. Then we pootled about on our own. Lunch, then a visit to the underwater observation deck - an aquarium in reverse, and difficult to catch snapshots of the fish gliding past.
We half-intended to try the semi-submersible or the glass bottomed boat, but couldn't resist snorkelling some more. The first time we'd felt cool for a week.
Even slightly chilled. Though we rapidly warmed up once we were out of the water. Everyone had to sign back in before the boat could leave the reef and make its way back to Cairns. There was an Englishwoman who was thrilled to have seen a turtle while she was snorkelling. "we're such tourists!" she commented. No worries.
When we reached Cairns again we wandered happily in the evening warmth for a while, indulged in a cup of tea, before returning to our Oceanside haven, and a rice salad before an early night with alarm set.

Mossman Gorge

About 15 kilometres North of Port Douglas the Mossman River makes its way down from the hills, fed by water stripped from the clouds by the jungly plants, as well as the rains. The large
Visitor centre is run and was designed by the Kuku Yalanji people, who have lived in the area for centuries.

I had some idea that it would be a very pushy place, with people trying to thrust aboriginal crafts at you. Not at all. It was pleasant, very well laid out, and there was an opportunity to browse with no pressure. Surely they sell more that way.
The bus fare to the walk around the gorge was $4.80 apiece. No more than a visit to the Rutland Water Bird reserve at Egleton. Once you arrive at the Bus stop in the gorge, there is a choice of trails, some very short, but the longest circuit is about 2.5 km. It seems longer in the heat and humidity, though thankfully the path is almost entirely in the shade.
We arrived at 1 pm and followed the longer circuit, past the Mossman River Lookout, and over Rex Creek suspension bridge, which bounces in a joyful manner as you walk across.
Shortly afterwards there is another viewpoint, and you can see Manjal Dimbi (Mount Demi), which is sacred to the Kuku Valanji. A large humanoid rock represents Kubirri, who protected the Kuku Valanji, when they were threatened by an evil spirit Wurrumbu. The mountain is high, steep and covered with lush tropical trees.
A party of visitors ahead of us had stopped, and showed us a lizard - the local 'forest dragon'.
For the most part the path is clear and not overcrowded, so that you feel as though you are right in the rainforest. We saw more impressive trees, including a sinister 'strangler fig' , of the sort that formed the curtain fig near Yungaburra.
When we finished the circuit, we went back to the swimming hole, where there were many warnings of the danger of flash floods. Lots of people were swimming, so Harry joined them, and I paddled. I was amused to hear several people complaining how cold the water was. Wonder what they'd make of Scarborough.
We returned to Port Douglas by about 6pm, to cook a pasta salad with tuna. Then a final stroll round the town, and on to the beach to look at the stars, before returning to the cottage and writing twenty-three Christmas cards. My earliest ever - just so that people can get Aussie cards with Aussie stamps. They 'll have an almighty shock, since my cards are usually the ones sliding through the letter box on December 23rd!

Yungaburra bookseller - a few days ago!

A seller of rare books he was in Yungaburra town
The day will come the seller said
When books will be as gold
Rarities, the hoi polloi will wish they could afford
Yer kindles and yer kobos will have rotted into dust,
electronic circuits gone AWOL, superseded, rust.
But paper ink technology will last beyond their grave
Though most'll just be rich guys' toys - in a fine gated enclave.

We saw it! Queensland total solar eclipse

Decisions, decisions! Stay in Port Douglas and brave the forecast cloud, or head inland thirty miles or so, and still risk a stray strand of cloud obscuring our view at the crucial moment?
Set off the night before with borrowed camping gear, or set off before 3am and hope to find a decent viewpoint by the road?
In the end I relied on Harry's instinct and we got up at about 2:30, had a rapid cup of tea, chucked essentials in the car and headed for the hills.
We'd been warned about light-seeking suicidal kangaroos and cattle on the unfenced roads, but met neither as we drove through the dark.
We passed the village of Mount Carbine, and noticed several sets of vehicles parked at the roadside - where the sandy verges were wide enough and not too rough. We chose a position quite high upon a straight section of road leading west. It was still very dark and I have never seen a more magnificent display of stars, with the Milky Way living up to its name, and Orion high overhead. As day began to dawn, the stars slowly faded, and we watched some lingering low cloud on the eastern horizon. Was it low enough for the sun to rise above it before E time?
Birds began their morning calls across the arid landscape.
A few more cars arrived - and we stayed put, testing out the eclipse glasses, which were totally black until the sun appeared. It was going to be above the cloud.We watched the moon's shadow begin to eat away at the sun. We were still holding our breath in case of wisps of cloud. The light was growing weaker, colder. Our shadows were still clear and sharp and very long.
As the sun's disc was completely covered we had a brief period of darkness and then the magical effect of the sun's corona and the diamond ring shone out for a few moments before the moon's shadow moved out of the way gradually.

More to come . . .

Rainforest Cottages, Lake Eacham.

Rainforest cottages, Sunday 11 November. A slowish start to the day, after a sudden attack of day light early on.
Ten o'clock going on eleven before we ate our carnivore's breakfast. To give it its due, it sets you up for the day.
The public area with the small stream and pool is a magnet for the birds - finches with red caps and tails, some more delicate birds which zipped back and forth skimming the water before settling on the plants nearby, and one larger bird with a crest and white splash. A lounging lizard on a rounded rock completed the picture.
Coffee and biscuits on the cheap today! By around 2:30 we were inclined to look further afield and set off on an expedition to Herberton, an old mining settlement, whose main claim to fame today seems to be its extensive and expensive heritage mining village. $25 each struck us as somewhat steep for the hour or so we had before closing time, so instead we chatted to the attendant, who offered to let us back in tomorrow if we wished. The place looked good from the outside, with some interesting pieces of machinery on display, but we decided against this and made our way to the 'real' Herberton to pick up an ice-cream and a drink to see us on our way.
We picked up the Gillies highway towards Atherton, turning off after a couple of miles or so to visit the Hypipamee Crater and the Dinner Falls. Huge cliffs covered in trees and a vertical drop into a silty lake. The viewing area is fenced off. A teenaged girl offed to take our photo. The path continues down to the lower end of the falls, which at first don't look inordinately high. As we walked along we realised there were another two large waterfalls.
In the car park there was a large notice warning of the dangers of the cassowary, and the need for its conservation - there are some uncuddly creatures out here.
We headed for 'home', but we're sidetracked by the sign for the 'Curtain Fig Tree'. A tree of curious habits. Its seed lodges in the angle of another tree's branch and it germinates. It sends down a root into the soil and strangles the host tree, eventually becoming self sufficient. The site is sacred to the original inhabitants of the region. It forms part of the Mabi Forest - only 2% of this forest has survived logging and clearance for farming.
Dinner was a 'clean out the fridge ' pizza, then we took the car up to the lake to do some stargazing. On the way back the road appeared to be blocked by a log. No log, this was a large python, about eight feet of python, which didn't look like moving any time soon.
Eventually, Harry persuaded it to go, in spite of my admonitions of 'be careful' from the safety of the car, and we could drive back down to the cottage.

Lake Eacham to Port Douglas

Lake Eacham to Port Douglas. Monday 12 November

Before daylight there was a very heavy tropical downpour. Even so, we woke in plenty of time to pack and leave our luxurious retreat in Rainforest Cottages at Eacham Lake. Remnants of fruit were put out for the birds, and we were treated to the sight of a small marsupial and its baby rooting around for food on the wet leaves.

We left Lake Eacham soon after ten, and made our way via Yungaburra and Atherton to Mareeba, where we stopped for a coffee and a hat, and tried to buy some eclipse glasses. These weren't to be had anywhere, and half the town looked to be joining in the chase.

The coffee in McDonalds was rubbish. How had I expected any different? Well, the area looked cool and shady. . .

I directed us rather a long way round for our next leg - via Korunda. When we eventually joined the Captain Cook Highway we stopped for a break at Clifton Village, and lo! Eclipse glasses for sale.

It's a long way from home . . .

In Cairns

Upside down on Tuesday morning. 13 nov

I'm lying in bed with a cup of tea - nothing new there then! Except it's November, and I have the window wide open, looking out onto a balcony surrounded by lush leaves and the occasional squawk of a lorikeet.  We're in Port Douglas, Northern Queensland.  The kind of place that I'd never really thought about visiting.
Why? We're hoping to witness this years total solar eclipse. I'm so pleased we used that as a kick up the bum to travel south of the equator. Australia has more than fulfilled any expectations I had.

We've seen iguanas roaming loose in Brisbane, exotic birds untold, a duck-billed platypus in the wild, a python lying across the road back to our cottage near Lake Eacham,  and the stars of the southern sky. Wow!

Halloween in Brooklyn

Photo from Leonie Wilson

The lock-keeper

His cup of tea on the window ledge

he watches through the glass

a narrowboat goes through the lock

a gleam of polished brass

Jack kept the lock when working boats

hauled goods along the water

Couples toiled and lived on board

along with sons and daughters.

The hour or so it took to rise

the seventy feet or more

was put to use in passing news

and building living lore.

Now Jack stands there, cast in bronze

beside the window still

to watch another motley crew

rise and descend this hill.

We walk the tow path one fine morn

and pause for tea and cake.

You stand near Jack in mirror pose

and bring the past awake.

Winchester 14 September 2012

I arranged to meet a couple of friends from Vancouver who were visiting the UK.  They love cathedrals and architecture,  and Winchester was on their list.
I arrived early and wandered around.  It had been damp enough for a waterproof, but soon cleared up.

The view down the main street

Outside the Hampshire county council offices

The cathedral

From the front

We met outside the cathedral and decided to go for a walk round, have a look at the market, and grab a coffee.  By the time we returned there was a notice outside saying that the cathedral was closed  until 3pm, for a school service.  

So we walked around some of the older streets.  

Then along the shopping street.

Parody sign - King Alf raises a glass.

The market in the background - the real King Alf is hidden at he bottom somewhere

We visited the Great Hall with its Round Table, constructed in the mid to late thirteenth century - a bit late for Arthur.  Then outside to Queen Eleanor's Garden - a reconstruction of a medieval garden. 

Infra sunt nomina comitatus militum de com Soton (???)

Please do not sit on the judge's bench!

We had a quick look at the passages (sallie ports and garderobes ?) which, along with the great hall are all that remain of the castle, before returning to the cathedral for another drink, in time for the end of the service.

Unfortunately, the service had overrun, and we agreed to call the cathedral visit off.  
After Mary and Tony had caught the train, I strolled back to the market to buy some bread, cheese and Turkish Delight - always one for a balanced diet.

Silly signs time - no go?

Looking up the main street.

Memo to self - I'll try to home in on some stalls for photos next time!

The walk that wasn't

Ever seen the 1970 film Out of Towners? Jack Lemmon stars as a guy from Ohio going for a job interview in NYC.  His well-laid plans to indulge his wife with a room at the Waldorf and a gourmet meal the night before gang very aglae as fog closes the airport in New York and the plane diverts to Boston. And that's just the start of their woes.

I watched the film on Wednesday night, and felt I was living a, thankfully, tamer version on Friday. 

We were going to walk about 11 miles, starting around 9.30. With luck we'd have a decent walk before the forecast rain began in the afternoon.   Crossed wires - well, misunderstood emails - screwed up our meeting point, but hey this happens, and luckily there was Benjamin Grosvenor playing piano on Radio Three, so I wasn't fretting.    

We eventually met up, and I was driving quite happily along a narrowish country road, when some nameless unknown character drove a little too close to me and with a flamboyant bang destroyed my offside wing mirror.  

Hell - we needed some coffee now, so a change of plan took us into a convenient garden centre café.  No problem and it was past 10 am, so I was up for my caffeine shot.  The lack of a wing mirror was niggling though - it's quite possible to drive without it, but takes some getting used to. 

Second change of plan - we headed to Oakham to see if anyone could fix it. As they couldn't we parked the car, kitted ourselves out in walking gear - boots, backpacks, maps dangling from our necks, the works. You can guess the next thing - the rain turned up on time and settled in for the day.

Here is Hudson's life story as a royal favourite, then as a slave in North Africa, his return to England, and later imprisonment as a Roman Catholic traitor.

So, a mile round Oakham, lunch and a return home.  As we walked back to the car, someone smiled cheerfully and said, "Not much of a day for walking, is it?"  Little did he know.

Oakham's butter cross and stocks

Oakham Castle - Great Hall

swallows

swallows on wires
luggage checked in
long flight ahead

Pics taken through window - and I need a steadier hand!